FAQS on Beds

American Sleep Research Institute
In December 1988, a pioneer in the field of sleep normalcy opened its doors, American Sleep Research Institute (ASRI). This fully modernized sleep and biomechanical research/testing facility is the only one of its kind in the United States. ASRI is solely dedicated to developing measurable, objective criteria to be applied to the study of sleep quality.

Evaluation and Biomechanical Research
One-third of a person's life is spent sleeping. What constitutes a normal night's sleep? Can qualitative criteria be established to measure sleep quality? Do correlations exist between environmental and physiological sleep-related products? Answers to these questions began being formulated in late 1988.

Evaluation, Validation and Certification
Because of growing requirements for evaluation and certification by the FDA and various other institutions and agencies for an increasing number of sleep-related products--bedding, pharmaceuticals, medical and orthopedic supplies--ASRI offers manufacturers specialized evaluation of their product's performance and value, and its relationship to the quality of sleep. Through qualitative evaluation, utilizing polysomnographic and subjective measures, assessment of qualified product performance can be determined. ASRI is the only research facility targeted to meet today's demand for commercial/industrial testing of sleep-related products.

Biomechanical Research -- Qualitative Studies
ASRI's biomechanical research focuses on the correlation between product design, comfort and sleep. Having selected the research criteria that suggestively defines quality sleep, ASRI biomechanically measures a product's performance. Through biomechanic research, it is possible to determine how effective a product is in regard to enhancing user comfort. Additionally, qualitative sleep studies using human subjects are conducted to further define product performance. ASRI utilizes a fully automated, environmentally controlled, six room, two-bed facility, with the ability to regulate/monitor temperature, humidity, light/sound and the physiological changes of sleeping subjects. Further capabilities include two state-of-the-art EEG machines, computerized spinal modeling analysis and a white sound machine. Qualitative sleep studies and comparative analysis are conducted, using the aforementioned technology to monitor human subjects while they sleep. EEG and other polysomnographic variables are recorded throughout the various sleep cycles. Objectively monitored are over 20 sleep variables that include:

• Sleep Stages
• Sleep Latency --The number of minutes before the onset of a measurable sleep cycle.
• Sleep Efficiency --The percentage of time spent in bed versus the time spent asleep.
• Micro-Arousals --Rate per hour of measurable, but brief, changes during sleep to waking brain wave activity.
• Major Body Repositioning --Rate of major body position changes per hour. In addition to EEG and other readings, sleep subjects are monitored via closed circuit TV for visual observation of sleep activity and future analysis.

All polysomnographic measures are conducted, then followed by a post sleep subject survey to determine subjective assessment of sleep quality. Subjects respond to questions designed to elicit their subjective opinions regarding the product tested. After comparative analysis of both the scientific/biomechanical data and the subjective survey results, ASRI provides a detailed summary of all test findings, as they apply to the research objective.

In Conclusion ASRI was created to meet the growing need for specialized commercial/industrial research and testing of products relating to sleep physiology, human factors and biomechanics. ASRI offers manufacturers and suppliers specialized evaluation of their product's performance and physiological relationship to sleep quality. The ASRI staff are experienced, qualified research technicians and are registered Polysomnographic Technologists. Pioneering the field of sleep normalcy ASRI is the sole authority in helping to define sleep quality criteria, through qualitative evaluation and biomechanical research. The ASRI Seal of Approval is granted only to those products whose biomechanical and qualitative research findings consistently suggest superior sleep quality.

An innerspring bed is a bed that incorporates springs to create that support needed in mattress. An innerspring also utilizes foam and fiber to create different levels of comfort.

A vinyl mattress containing water which is surrounded by four wooden boards, approximately 2" thick by 10" tall. The wooden frame can be decorative and be raised off the floor by using pedestal or riser and deck boards.

A vinyl mattress containing water which is surrounded by 4 foam sidepieces and covered in an upholstered fabric, made to look like an innerspring bed.

An airbed is a product that restricts air in a confined space thus providing a positive force for support at varying levels. Not all beds are created equal.

Step 1: From the bathroom faucet, remove the aerator by unscrewing it. (If your bathroom faucet does not have an aerator, you will have to use your kitchen faucet or an outside faucet.)

Step 2: Attach the faucet connector you purchased with your waterbed maintenance kit into your faucet. Next attach in a garden hose to the faucet connector. Make a tight fit to avoid spray leakage (a towel placed over the faucet while filling will keep any leakage from spraying.) To help eliminate unclean water in your bed, flush running water through the garden hose for a minimum of 10 minutes before filling your bed.

Step 3: Attach the waterbed hose connector onto your garden hose. Insert it into your "popped-up" valve and attach the hose connector and valve securely together to avoid leakage. Wrap a towel around this connector to soak up any unavoidable leakage.

Step 4: Pour in your waterbed conditioner. Fill your waterbed with mild to warm water approximately one quarter to one half inch below the side of the frame boards. Shut off the water and remove the hose.

Step 5: Remove the air bubbles inside the mattress. Do this by "pushing" them with a broomstick towards the valve which is "popped up". Remove all the bubbles or they will create a "sloshing" sound. You will have to remove air bubbles again in about three days and also occasionally thereafter. Step 6 Insert the plug and securely screw on the cap. Plug in your temperature control system according to specific manufacturer's instructions and turn the thermostat to 85. Within 3 days, you can more accurately adjust up or down to your comfort.

Step 6: Insert the plug and securely screw on the cap. Plug in your temperature control system according to specific manufacturer's instructions and turn the thermostat to 85. Within 3 days, you can more accurately adjust up or down to your comfort.

Step 7: This close up photo shows how to insert your cap and plug without allowing air to get in the mattress and without allowing water to spill out. Your cap and plug may be a one piece design. Not separate as shown.

*ALWAYS unplug your waterbed heater before draining or filling your waterbed.

Step 1: Unplug your temperature control unit. The best and easiest way to drain the bed is to obtain an electric draining pump from your local retailer, or, insert your garden hose with waterbed hose connector into the "popped-up" valve.

Step 2: Weight down the area around the valve with a few heavy objects, such as telephone books. This step will help prevent air bubbles inside the mattress from getting into your garden hose and stopping the siphoning action you will create.

Step 3: Mount your drain pump to your closest faucet and attach your garden hose. Make sure your fittings are tight. With the "bell valve" in the "up" position, turn on the water to put more water in to mattress. This step pushes the air in your hose into your bed so you can create the continuous water siphon you need. (If you do not have a drain pump, see below for further instructions.)

Step 4: Once water is flowing into the bed for a few seconds, turn the "bell valve" to the "down" position, leaving the water flowing full blast. The water from your faucet flowing through your drain pump will suck the water out of your bed. This will take one or two hours depending on water pressure. Do not allow air to get in the hose.

Step 5: If you have a motion reduced mattress you must show special care while draining and moving your bed to prevent the interior baffles from shifting. HOLD THE BAFFLES IN PLACE IN THE MATTRESS AND LIFT UP ONE END. This will allow the remaining water to flow toward the valve.

Step 6: FOLD YOUR MATTRESS CAREFULLY. DO NOT LET THE BAFFLES SHIFT OUT OF PLACE. If any shifting does occur, you should reposition them before refilling your mattress.

1. ALWAYS unplug your waterbed heater before draining or filling your waterbed.
2. Attach your garden hose onto an outside faucet (the hose can go up through an open window).
3. Turn on the water for fifteen seconds. This pushes the air in the garden hose into your bed so you can create a continuous water siphon.
4. Turn off the water. Disconnect the hose from the faucet and let it drop to the ground. As long as the end of the hose is lower than your waterbed, gravity will siphon the water out.

• If a cap becomes loose or stripped, replace with a new cap, or add a piece of electrical tape around the valve which could provide a tighter fit.
• If the valve stem threading is stripped, a new cap will not help. This would not be considered a manufacturers defect. This is a result of excessive force when removing or tightening the cap.

If you are moving long distance or will have the mattress stored for a while:

• Drain the waterbed mattress flat using an electric draining pump which you have rented or purchased from a waterbed supply store.
• Treat the mattress with a double dose of a quality waterbed conditioner to protect the mattress from bacterial growth.
• Place a blanket on top and underneath the mattress.
• Fold the mattress in half and then in half again or fold the mattress in from the top to the middle then from the bottom to the middle.
• Place the mattress in a cardboard box for protection while moving
• When setting the bed up, fill the mattress and include a double dose of a quality waterbed conditioner to protect the mattress from bacterial growth.

If you are moving the mattress and unpacking it immediately:

• Drain the waterbed mattress flat using an electric draining pump which you have rented or purchased from a waterbed supply store.
• Place a blanket on top and underneath the mattress.
• Roll the mattress from one end to the other.
• The mattress can be placed in a cardboard box for protection while moving.
• Set the bed up and fill the mattress immediately. Include a double dose of a quality waterbed conditioner to protect the mattress from bacterial growth.

You can fold your hardside or softside water mattress. You will need to drain as much water as possible out of your mattress. If you have one of Land and Sky’s mattresses with an Airjet+ you will be able to drain most of the water out of the mattress simply with an self priming pump. After the water has been taken out, fold the mattress in threes lengthwise and then fold in half. Wrap the mattress in a blanket and move to your new location.

I would fill the bed with hand warm water (approximately 85 degrees) This would help reduce "Buyers Remorse". The bed will feel the same as it did at the store when they made the purchase. IF a customer fills a bed with cold water (approximately 55 degrees you can expect that heater to warm the bed at a approximately a degree to 2 degrees an hour. This will change with bed size and heater used.

Queen at 162 gallons and a King at 195 gallons. FYI the formula or this is W x L x D = cubic inches and then divide cubic inches by 231.

A gallon of water weighs 8.346 pounds. Take this times the number gallons (see above gallons or use formula) in a bed plus the weight of a dry matt and an empty frame and foundation.

You should put one bottle of Premium Conditioner in every 6 months.

You make a waveless waterbed firmer by putting in less water.

There are several points that emphasize the differences between the heaters. a. The Low Watt heater has a stiff stainless steel pad connected to the outer down side of the pad. The pad is also about 1/3 less in size than a full watt pad. The Low Watt is designed for softside beds. The High Watt heater is not to be used with a softside bed, only with a hardside mattress. Whereas the Low Watt heater can be used on a hardside mattress there is not enough wattage to maintain a constant temperature in a hardside mattress.